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Should you take your dog?
As much fun as you both have together in the outdoors, there are times when your dog would be much better off with a pet sitter. If you’re going to a National Park, dogs are not allowed on these trails. Dogs and fishing trips don’t go well together either. Whether they traipse through the water or bark at nearby squirrels - dogs generally have a way of scaring the fish away. Your dog shouldn’t go on an extended trip unless they’re in good physical condition (translate: they don’t spend all day on the couch and line up at the dinner table for daily scraps) and accustomed to carrying their pack.
What to bring for your dog
Okay, so Fido is in great shape, is well-behaved, and you’re taking him to a dog-friendly area to hike. Please make sure that he has proper identification (collar ID tags have saved many a dog from lonely time in an animal shelter), is current on all vaccinations (some states even have inspection stations at the border, most campgrounds require proof of rabies vaccines), and a safe, sturdy leash & collar.
We like to take a long lead (30-40 ft) with us when we’re hiking. It gives the dogs a bit more freedom and gives us the ability to reign them in should we encounter unfriendly critters (or folks) on the trail. There are people that actually don’t like dogs and don’t take too kindly to meeting even friendly canines on the trail. Keep Fido on his leash, just in case, and you can help him steer clear of the undesirables you meet along the way. A little obedience training wouldn’t hurt, either. If you have a dog that you want to take with you on the trail, obedience training will make you both a lot happier in the long run.
For longer trips on the trail, you’ll want to outfit your dog with his own pack. He can carry his own food and water, helping reduce your load considerably. Make sure that the fit is right (most packs come in several sizes) and that the straps are wide enough and comfortable against your dog’s fur. If you can, bring your dog to the shop to try on the pack. Some packs come with soft (usually fleece) pieces under the pack straps to reduce the chance of rubbing and causing any discomfort or sores. Make sure that your get him used to his pack before heading out on the trail. Let him wear it around the house for a few days, or on a normal walk, increasing the load slightly each time. Pack everything inside the pack in plastic garbage bags. Your dog could jump in a stream, or roll in something nasty-smelling (which he probably will if you pass by it) and the stuff inside the pack will end up smelling just as bad.
If you’re hiking in an area with few clean, or safe, water sources, make sure that you bring along enough water for your pal, too. Dogs like to drink smaller amounts more frequently than we do, so if you’re not near a good source of water, make sure that you give him a little drink every hour or so. Take along one of those collapsible water bowls, or a Sierra cup to make it a little easier. The collapsible dishes are great - they weigh next to nothing and you can crush them into any shape to fit into wherever it’s most convenient.
Before heading out on the trail, make sure that your dog is not only up-to-date on all of his vaccinations, but is also on heartworm medication (those mosquitos can be nasty out there), and has adequate flea/tick protection. Use a product like Frontline, which is fairly effective for at least 6 weeks, and resists water very well. Also check your dog over each night for ticks, just in case the medicine didn’t quite do the job.
Skunks and dogs don’t mix well. If your friend happens to be gifted with a skunk’s lovely scent, we have a remedy. Works much better than tomato juice.
Mix a quart of hydrogen peroxide with a teaspoon of salt and two ounces of baking soda. Apply the whole mixture to the affected parts of the dog (usually around the head and chest - be careful not to get it into his eyes. You can tell where the spray hit because the mixture reacts with a mighty bubbling and some heat. Let it stand for about 15-20 minutes. You can add a little shampoo before rinsing to leave a sweeter scent. Although it might be tempting to mix up a batch of this before heading out, don't. You can't store it, because the peroxide and baking soda are natural reactants and a capped bottle of it would likely explode.
You are the intruder in the animals’ world, so do not approach closely or disturb them, for their sake and your safety. When you do come across animals unexpectedly and at close quarters, move away slowly and quietly, and cause as little disturbance as possible. With most animals, you only need fear attack if you startle a mother with young. Some animals pose more of a threat and need special attention. Here’s what the experts say...
The easiest method of bearbagging is to tie a rock to the end of a line, throw it over a branch at least 20 feet off the ground, haul up the food until the bottom of the bag is at least 12 feet up, then tie off the line around the trunk of a tree.
Bearbagging protects bears as well as food, since a bear that finds food at a campsite may learn to raid it regularly, becoming such a danger that it has to be destroyed.
Bears are attracted to food because of the smell, so they may consider items such as toothpaste, soap, sunscreen, food-stained clothing, dish rags and dirty pots to be food as well. So keep them out of your tent and hang them with your food!
If a bear does get your food don’t try to get it back. The bear will defend what it regards as its own food.
The chances of seeing a bear, let alone being attacked by one, are remote. However, you can minimize the chances of encountering one. When you’re on the move, let bears know you’re there so they’ll give you a wide berth. Their acute senses of smell and hearing will alert them to your presence long before you’re aware of them. However, a noisy stream, a wind blowing in your face, or thick brush can all mask your signals. In this case, make a noise to let bears know you’re around. Many people wear bells on their pack or walking stick for this purpose, but they really aren’t all that loud. It’s better to sing or shout, clap your hands or blow your safety whistle. Scan ahead for bears. A pair of binoculars can help with this. Look for evidence of bears, like paw prints, scratch marks on trees and bear dung. If you see a bear before it sees you, detour quickly and quietly away from it.
In wooded country, look for a tree to climb as you move away, in case the bear comes after you. Black bears can climb trees but may not follow you up one, and grizzlies supposedly can’t climb - although they can reach real high. If the bear keeps coming and you do climb a tree, you need to get at least 30 feet up to be safe.
Bear-country ranger stations and information offices have up-to-date reports on areas that bears are using and whether any have caused trouble. For your own safety and that of the bears, obey any regulations that are in force.
I’m not real crazy about giving advice on what to do when you encounter wild critters on the trail, but I’ve checked out some of the handbooks and websites out there and I’ll tell you what they say about handling these encounters. I’ve been pretty lucky myself and never ran into any poisonous snakes (that I know of), and the one bear that we saw ran off (at the encouragement of our dog Marley) before we had a chance to worry about what we should do. I did have a customer in the shop the other day that just came off the trail after having the scare of his life running into a mama (black) bear and her cubs. 
Bears
No doubt about it, bears are attracted by the smell of food. One of the most important things to do before bedding down for the night is to get that food away from your tent. In areas where bears may raid campsites in search of food, food bags need to be hung at least 12 feet above the ground, 10 feet away from the trunk of a tree, and 6 feet below any branch. There are several ways of doing this, and all require at least 50 feet of nylon cord and a tough stuff sack or two. Any stuff sacks will do, but Gregory offers ones specially designed for bearbagging. These bags come with sewn-in haul loops and a 40 foot length of parachute cord with an attached sack for a rock.
Be particularly aware of female bears with cubs - 70 percent of known attacks are by mothers defending their young. If the bear is aware of you, move away from it, perhaps waving your arms or talking to help it identify what you are. Don’t stare at it or act aggressively, or you may be seen as a threat.
Very occasionally, a bear will charge. Advice is mixed regarding what to do if one does. You can’t outrun a bear. Dropping an object, such as a camera or item of clothing, may distract it and allow you to escape. Don’t drop your pack - if a bear eats your food, it may regard future walkers as food sources. Your pack will also help protect your body if a bear actually does attack. If dropping something doesn’t work, your choices are trying to frighten the bear by yelling, banging loud objects together, hitting it while standing your ground (a scary thought, I might say) or backing away slowly, acting non-threatening by talking quietly to the bear or dropping to the ground and playing dead. You could also use a spray repellent called Counter Assault. This is a very strong version of cayenne pepper-based anti-dog sprays that has been shown to repel bears both in the field and in controlled tests. It’s non-toxic and available in 8-ounce canisters.
Snakes
Snakebites usually occur below the ankle, so wearing boots and thick socks in snake country minimizes the chances of getting bitten. Snakes will do everything possible to stay out of your way - the vibrations of your boots are usually enough to send them slithering off before you even see them. Be cautious around bushes and rock piles, because snakes may seek shelter there. Do not walk around at night in a snake-country campsite in sandals or bare feet without checking the ground first.
Rattlesnakes usually warn you of their presence by rattling, so you can avoid them most of the time. In some areas, walking at night can present difficulties. Rattlesnakes come out at night and they are hard to distinguish from sticks and other debris. Avoid night hiking in rattlesnake territory.
If you’re interested in knowing more, there is a detailed section on snakes and the legends surrounding them in Colin Fletcher’s The Complete Walker.
Although most species are harmless and chances of being bitten by one are remote, the snake is probably more feared than any other animal. I’ve had customers tell me that they won’t hike in warm weather, for fear of encountering snakes. This really limits your enjoyment of the great outdoors.
In the major North American wilderness areas there are four species of poisonous snakes - the rattlesnake, copperhead, coral snake and water moccasin (also called a cottonmouth). Not all areas have them. They are rarely found in Alaska and Maine or above the timberline. Their venom is unlikely to seriously harm fit, healthy people.
In the shop, we carry a Coglan’s Snake Bite Kit containing suction cups, antiseptic ampule and swab, scalpel blade, lymph constrictor, and instructions. Lots of people seem to feel better with one of these in their pack. However, an untrained person could cause more harm than the bite itself if using this kit improperly. Some current sources recommend washing the bite with soap and water, then bandaging it and keeping the limb hanging down to minimize the chance of venom entering the bloodstream. The victim should stay still and rest while someone goes for assistance. If you’re alone, you may have to sit for several days feeling horrible unless you’re close enough to habitation or a road to walk to aid quickly.